Post by Pup on Feb 20, 2011 7:44:03 GMT
Front paw strike:
Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Front paw blow:
Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponents head. Claws sheathed.
Back-kick:
Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent’s distance from you carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front paws.
Belly rake:
A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponents belly. If you’re pinned down, the belly rake quickly buts you back in control.
Upright lock:
Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake.
Leap-and-hold:
Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto your opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponents paws, and in position to inflick severe body wounds.
Watch out for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Teeth grip:
Target your opponents extremities.- the legs, tail, scruff, or ears - and sink your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold, except your claws remain free to fight.
Scruff shake:
Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent’s neck, then shake violently until they’re too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill.
Play dead:
Effective in a tight situation, like when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent, and put you in an attacking position.
Killing bite:
A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent, and sometimes considered dishonorable. Use only as a last resort.
Partner fighting:
Warriors who have trained together and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other’s back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
AMBUSH DROP:
If it is possible to get above your opponent in a tree or higher ground, this move may prove useful for an ambush. The element of surprise is priceless, and this move allows for a quick, direct attack. Climbing into a tree branch or even on the side of a tree to twist and fall onto the back of an intruder with claws unsheathed can give you a good position to give a nasty bite.
DROP-AND-ROLL
Counter move for the leap-and-hold, this move is valuable when fighting a smaller or equal sized opponent who has a strong grip. Roll over and try to smother or squash them to loosen their grip. Be prepared for a quick recovery so as not to make yourself vulnerable.
DROP-AND-KICK
Counter move to the upright lock, this move requires the knowledge that your opponent will be using the upright lock. When the opponent moves into the upright lock position with both paws raised, quickly move under them and strike up with powerful back legs. Preformed without enough speed this move is dangerous, and should only be used with confident fighters.
DODGE
A common but effective strategy for a quick cat to disarm an opponent and avoid attack. Watch an opponent's eyes carefully to anticipate the target, and leap out of the way when they strike.
UNBALANCE
This move is aimed at disarming an opponent by knocking them down or making them stumble. It's a straightforward attack, and it's necessary not to betray your target with your eyes. Target legs and shoulders to unbalance with a paw strike, backlegs, a muzzle, or go in with a powerful head butt.
DEFENSE ROLL
Below the opponent's move can strike, duck your head and roll sideways and leap up. It's not an offensive move, but a quick move with a fluid recovery can catch your opponent off guard.
Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.
Front paw blow:
Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponents head. Claws sheathed.
Back-kick:
Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent’s distance from you carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking your weight on your front paws.
Belly rake:
A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws across soft flesh of opponents belly. If you’re pinned down, the belly rake quickly buts you back in control.
Upright lock:
Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring full weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake.
Leap-and-hold:
Ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. Spring onto your opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponents paws, and in position to inflick severe body wounds.
Watch out for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed.
Teeth grip:
Target your opponents extremities.- the legs, tail, scruff, or ears - and sink your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold, except your claws remain free to fight.
Scruff shake:
Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponent’s neck, then shake violently until they’re too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill.
Play dead:
Effective in a tight situation, like when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent, and put you in an attacking position.
Killing bite:
A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent, and sometimes considered dishonorable. Use only as a last resort.
Partner fighting:
Warriors who have trained together and fought together will often instinctively fall into a paired defensive position, each protecting the other’s back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.
AMBUSH DROP:
If it is possible to get above your opponent in a tree or higher ground, this move may prove useful for an ambush. The element of surprise is priceless, and this move allows for a quick, direct attack. Climbing into a tree branch or even on the side of a tree to twist and fall onto the back of an intruder with claws unsheathed can give you a good position to give a nasty bite.
DROP-AND-ROLL
Counter move for the leap-and-hold, this move is valuable when fighting a smaller or equal sized opponent who has a strong grip. Roll over and try to smother or squash them to loosen their grip. Be prepared for a quick recovery so as not to make yourself vulnerable.
DROP-AND-KICK
Counter move to the upright lock, this move requires the knowledge that your opponent will be using the upright lock. When the opponent moves into the upright lock position with both paws raised, quickly move under them and strike up with powerful back legs. Preformed without enough speed this move is dangerous, and should only be used with confident fighters.
DODGE
A common but effective strategy for a quick cat to disarm an opponent and avoid attack. Watch an opponent's eyes carefully to anticipate the target, and leap out of the way when they strike.
UNBALANCE
This move is aimed at disarming an opponent by knocking them down or making them stumble. It's a straightforward attack, and it's necessary not to betray your target with your eyes. Target legs and shoulders to unbalance with a paw strike, backlegs, a muzzle, or go in with a powerful head butt.
DEFENSE ROLL
Below the opponent's move can strike, duck your head and roll sideways and leap up. It's not an offensive move, but a quick move with a fluid recovery can catch your opponent off guard.